Wednesday, January 11, 2012

What's "UP" in Istanbul/3... an ongoing series

Dear readers,

There is so so much going on in Istanbul! Well, our lovely city is a major metropolitan and cosmopolitan city that can rival many cities in Europe and the USA!

Of course, I'm not preparing a magazine like I used to, so my info on Istanbul in What's "UP" is based on personal experiences and press releases that I continue to get from some PR firms... I will continue to share anything noteworthy to both residents and visitors - but with my own twist on the news - whether I received it from outside sources or whether I personally find the topic newsworthy!

This is Part 3 in an ongoing series... so here goes!

Compared to just a few years ago, the number of hotels that have opened and continue to open in all parts of the city is definitely on the rise. You can find anything from the 5 star deluxe to the boutique with a dusting of business and 3-4 star hotels thrown in for good measure....
One such hotel... Avantgarde Hotel Istanbul (www.avantgardehotel.com) is literally under my nose in Zincirlikuyu, but I didn't "discover" it until last month!
Avantgarde Hotel (picture from their website)
I don't know when it opened exactly, but I believe it's been a little more than a year. It is located on the corner of Büyükdere Caddesi and is just a few short blocks from the Levent Metro, Metrocity and Kanyon Shopping Malls to the left and the Gayrettepe Metro station and Astoria Shopping Mall to the right!

I attended a party thrown by a dear friend of mine in December (I will be writing about the reason for the party at a later date as I'm still waiting for some new developments before I write about it) and really liked the hotel and had a chance to visit one of its suites too. I found the staff very friendly and efficient.
Deluxe room (photo from Avantgarde Hotel website)
The Avantgarde Hotel has a total of 84 guest rooms with 63 deluxe, 4 superior deluxe, 14 grand deluxe and 3 residential suites. All rooms are elegantly decorated and include all the amenities of a deluxe hotel. Additionally, all rooms have rain showers, coffee/tea service, laptop size safe and free high speed internet access.
The hotel has a a breakfast room, all day dining room, terrace lounge, indoor swimming pool, 1000 square meter SPA, fitness center, pilates/yoga studio, fully equipped business center and a ballroom and 4 meeting rooms among other features.

So, if you plan on staying in the new part of town by the business districts, you might want to consider the Avantgarde Hotel...
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As of December 17, 2011... taxi rates in Istanbul increased....
Yet, compared to other major cities, taxi rates in Istanbul are still quite modest. According to the new rates,

              - The opening rate went up from 2.5 TL to 2.7 TL
              - Additonal charge for each kilometer therafter is now 1.73 TL versus 1.6 TL
              - The waiting period charge which goes into effect after 5 minutes is 0.27 TL per/minute versus 0.25 TL/minute.

So, make sure the taximeter is turned on when you get in the cab and you don't need to tip, however, it's best to round off the fare to the nearest TL.

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The arts & culture scene is alive and kicking in the city! There is an exhibit at almost every single museum and gallery in town and you probably read about most of them from different sites or the local domestic and foreign newspapers and magazines... the following are probably less publicized events that are also very interesting....

The Çırağan Palace has been home to many prominent exhibitions ever since it opened on the mezzanine level of the palace many years ago. They organize a new exhibit almost every month except during the summer.
Currently the works of Fevzi Karakoç and titled "Bridge II Series" is on display until January 31.
Fevzi Karakoç
This is Mr. Karakoç's 34th exhibit. If you'd like more information on the artist, visit his website at www.fevzikarakoc.com
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Just as I was preparing this post, I received an invitation to the next exhibit at the Çırağan Palace... just like the others, this will be a great one too!
As part of the Çırağan Palace's 20th anniversary this year (happy birthday Çırağan Palace!), a retrospective of internationally renowned Turkish artist Ismail Acar's works and titled "Love" will open to the public on February 9. Mr. Acar is also celebrating his 20th year in the art world too!
Ismail Acar painting
This special exhibit will not only include a selection of Mr. Acar's works, but also pieces that depict the love story of Sultan Abdulaziz, the main demigod of the Çırağan Palace and Napoleon III's wife Eugenie! The exhibit will be on display until March 28.
One of the great things about viewing exhibits at the Çırağan Palace is that it is open 24/7, so you can swing by anytime you have some free time! Admission is also free. Enjoy! For more info, you can call Tel: (0212) 327 00 12.
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Besides there permanent collection and temporary exhibits, the Pera Museum located in a lovely multi-level restored historical building in Tepebaşı-Beyoğlu also organizes the Pera Film Events from time to time which are screened at the museum's auditorium.

Until January 29, you can view the films of the the Cinéma Verité Pioneers D.A. Pennebaker and Chris Hegedus, renowned for their documentary films.

A total of 11 short and long documentary films are on the roster and from this point on (the events started on January 6), 3 to 5 films will be screened.
Kings of Pastry
All of the films are in English with Turkish subtitles. The program is as follows:
Day                                                Time                 Film Title
January 14 (Saturday)                   2:00pm             Don't Look Back
                                                      4:00pm              Monterey Pop
                                                            6:00pm              Alice Cooper + Little Richard
                                                      8:00pm              Jimi plays Monterey + Otis at Monterey

January 15 (Sunday)                    2:00pm               The War Room
                                                     4:00pm               The Return of the War Room
                                                     6:00pm               A Stravinsky Portrait

January 27 (Friday)                      7:00pm               One PM

January 28 (Saturday)                  2:00pm               The War Room
                                                     4:00pm                The Return of the War Room
                                                     6:00pm                Kings of Pastry

January 29 (Sunday)                   1:00pm                 Alice Cooper + Little Richard
                                                     2:00pm                Jimi plays Monterey + Otis at Monterey
                                                     4:00pm                Don't Look Back
                                                     6:00pm                Monterey Pop
For more information, prices, etc. call Tel: (0212) 334 99 00 or visit www.peramuzesi.org.tr

While at the Pera Museum, make sure to visit their permanent exhibit as well as any temporary exhibit that might be on display. For a quick snack, you can stop by the Pera Cafe (prices modest) or do some shopping at the Pera Museum Shop!
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Another very interesting and historic exhibit is currently on display at the Istanbul Research Institute, also a part of the Suna and Inan Kıraç Foundation like the Pera Museum.
From the Nile to the Bosphorus Exhibit
The exhibit is titled "From the shores of the Nile to the Bosphorus"  and includes paintings, photographs, political documents and objects tracing the Kavalalı Mehmed Ali Paşa Dynasty from Egypt to Istanbul. The exhibit is curated by Prof. M Baha Tanman and is on display until March 31. You can visit their website for more detailed information www.iae.org.tr)
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Whether you're eating out/eating in... want your kids to take some cooking classes or find out the results of a cooking competition, read on!
Vogue, a lovely fine dining restaurant & bar offering a wonderful view of the Bosphorus is located on the top floor of the BJK Building in Akaretler...
Vogue (picture from the Istanbul Doors Group website)
Part of the Istanbul Doors Group (www.istanbuldoors.com), Vogue has been open for 12-13 years and their menu includes a good selection of dishes from International/Mediterranean cuisine as well as sushi/sashimi.

Last year the IDG joined forces with prominent UK chef Tom Aikens and are now partners with Aikens notable restaurants in London. Now, Chef Aikens has added some of his touches to Vogue.. and new items have been added to the menu. Among them are Duck Soup with chestnuts, Risotto with mint pesto & goat cheese and Rack of Lamb. I haven't had a chance to go recently and must to try some of these new goodies!
Vogue is open daily from noon to 2:00am and Sunday Brunch is served between 10:30am and 4:00pm. Reservations for lunch or dinner are highly recommended. (Tel: (0212) 227 44 04)

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I love to cook!! And, I'm quite good at it because I love watching cooking shows (not crazy about following recipes from cookbooks I hate to say!) and picked up tons of tips through the years. But, ask me how much I cook and I can say almost zilch!

I live in a nice sized apartment, but unfortunately my kitchen is tiny and because I have limited counter space, I find it easier to order out or just stick to eating "basic" foods (cheese... bread... salads...). But, this can get boring too... so I am a major fan of .... www.yemeksepeti.com !!
In my neighborhood alone, I can choose from among over 200 restaurants and can order anything and everything from kebabs... burgers... pizza to chinese, japanese, italian cusines and more! I can just look at the selections and place an order without having to talk to someone and repeat my address each time and your order arrives in a maxiumum of 45 minutes, or you can schedule when you want it to arrive. So, why bother cooking for one?
I do have my favorite places and one in particular is Brooklyn Pizza.
Being an ex New Yorker, the name alone turned me onto BK when they opened several years ago. Their pizza is quite good and they also have Cinammon Rolls and corn dogs (very American!!). As time went by, they added new items to their menu... sure they had pizza, wings, salads - but then they added sandwiches... first the typical ones like tuna, mozarella, chicken... but then about a month or so ago, I noticed a couple of newcomers and went WILD!!! You really need to be a New Yorker to appreciate this... Brooklyn Pizza now has Eggplant and Chicken Parmiagana sandwiches on their menu!
Eggplant Parmiagana Sandwich (Brooklyn Pizza)
So, of course I had to order it and I have been hooked ever since (fattening... fattening .. ugh!!) Okay, the bread is different (and its homemade), but the ingredients itself are exactly the same and taste the same and only costs 11.5 TL! I haven't tried the chicken parm yet, but I'm not that crazy about chicken lately.

Although, this is not a new item... one day I also decided to order a salad. I'm usually not happy with the salads offered at most eateriesand I'm very picky about it! A salad is JUST not a salad and I usually find the ingredients lacking in quality and the dressings pretty mediocre. However, Brooklyn Pizza surprised me once again.
I ordered a small Caesar salad (6 TL)...
Caesar Salad from Brooklyn Pizza
The salad was delicious! Also, I was surprised at how "big" the "small" portion salad was... and, the pre-tossed dressing (I hate getting small dressing packets!) was just right and the ingredients very fresh. I would love to find out where they buy their romaine lettuce!

Brooklyn Pizza is located in Ulus, so if you live in the area, you can order from "yemeksepeti" or visit their pizza shop on Barış Sokak (I never went myself as I can order online).
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This past Sunday when I was reading the daily newspapers (I think I buy about 6 newspapers on the weekend!), a leaflet fell out of one of them...
And... I thought what a great idea!!!! Piola (www.piola.it)  is a great Italian restaurant and is located at the entrance of The Point Hotel in Esentepe... It opened about 3 years ago and the "original" is in Treviso, Italy. I had a chance to meet the owner and their Turkish partners when a group of journalists (including me) were invited to Treviso about 6 months before their branch opened in Istanbul. Then, I attended the opening in Istanbul and had dinner another time. Piola is also another one of my favorite places to order from yemeksepeti.com (I usually order the bruschetta, pizza with mushrooms and the tiramisu is OUT OF THIS WORLD.. and probably the best tiramisu I've had in Istanbul).
Now it appears they have a "Kids Pizza Academy" which is organized every Sunday between 1:00pm and 5:00pm when kids can create their own pizza! The ad also says that there is a clown, to entertain the kids and balloons are given out!
What a wonderful way to spend a Sunday afternoon with the kids - especially considering that the weather is usually rainy or very cold and not conducive for outdoor activities right now! (Yıldız Posta Caddesi No. 29 Esentepe; Tel: (0212) 337 30 70)

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If you had a chance to read Part 2 of What's "UP" in Istanbul, I had mentioned that the Çırağan Palace Hotel Kempinski had organized an "Amateur Meze (Appetizer) Competition". The top 3 winners were announced on December 12. The winning dishes are below. If you would like the recipes for these dishes, visit: www.ciraganyemekyarismasi.com (only in Turkish though!)
1st place - "Seafood Dolma" (Ayşe Gengönül)

2nd place - Squash with yogurt and walnuts" (Gökçe Karadeniz)
3rd place - "Hibeş" (Sibel Taşkan)
These 3 appetizers have been added to the menu at Laledan Restaurant and will remain on the menu throughout 2012. The Laledan menu includes a wide selection of hot and cold appetizers prepared with organic ingredients and fresh fish. The restaurant is open from 7:00pm to 11:00pm for dinner and to make reservation, call Tel: (0212) 326 46 46.

On the subject of the Laledan...from January 14 to March 31, a special set "Winter" menu at 145 TL/person is available which includes a selection of 14 wines from 7 countries (Argentine, Australia, France, South Africa, Spain, Italy and Chile) available by the glass or bottle.
Laledan Restaurant
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Shopping... shopping... who can ever get enough of it!!! I know I can't as my credit card bills can prove! Below I will give you just two shopping/gift giving ideas ...

I think it's very rare or nearly impossible to find a woman who doesn't like jewelry! Sure, we all have different tastes... some like gold, while others prefer silver (like me!), some like the "real" stuff (very expensive), while others are happy as long as the jewelry was produced with quality products.

This leads me to .... Swarovski!

Swarovski - Kanyon Shopping Mall
In December 2011, I attended a cocktail party at Swarovski in Kanyon where they introduced their new goodies for the season...

Swarovski



Swarovski
I don't need to tell you how beautiful and delicate their items are and these pictures are just a drop in the bucket compared to all of their offerings!

Of course, besides jewelry, they have other items...

Swarovski

Swarovski
So, if you're looking for a "special" gift for someone... or to even treat yourself, definitely stop by Swarovski before making your final decision!
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A couple of days ago, I received an email and press release from a friend of mine... the press release included information on Alessi an internationally renowned designer of top quality accessories and objects for the home and office.

Well.. Alessi has now opened a branch in Istanbul and is located on Nispetiye Caddesi No. 4, Apt. No. 8 in Akatlar (between Levent and Etiler).
Alessi
The shop includes about 3,000 products and includes the wares of AdiAlessi, Alessi and Officina Alessi.

Alessi

I don't know about you, but I can't wait to go and see all that they have to offer. I have no idea what the prices are, but I'm sure I'll be able to find something in my price range! Also, they also have a bridal registry service (www.alessi.com)!
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The last section of What's "UP" in Istanbul includes some TIDBITS...

When I attended Swarovski's cocktail party in December, we were served two types of prosecco...(counterpart to champagne and sparkling wine)...

The first was your classic glass of prosecco.. but the other was pepared with Chambord...
Chambord
And... I thought to myself - what a wonderful idea! So, if you want to perk up your prosecco, sparkling wine or champagne, add chambord to taste (I don't know the exact measurement to use - prepare to your taste and the color of the drink should be a light burgundy). It adds a nice little sweet kick! Chambord is available in Istanbul and can be found at gourmet markets and wine shops that carry liqueurs.

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If you're in the market to buy a cover for your cellular phone, you might have noticed that the pickins' are quite scare at the shops selling cellular phones... however, I did find one place that has a HUGE selection at modest prices...
Cellular phone cover stand - Metrocity
This display "stand" is located on the main level by the escalators at the end of the mall right before Marks & Spencer. I just got a new cover for my iphone and it cost only 20 TL.

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Dani

Monday, January 9, 2012

Grand (Covered) Bazaar & Nuruosmaniye Street

Dear readers,

Welcome to another "catch-up" article! After this one, I have one more and then I will be current!

One of the places I love to visit, but rarely get a chance to, is the Grand (Covered) Bazaar and Nuruosmaniye Street!

Grand Bazaar (Nuruosmaniye Entrance)

Nuruosmaniye Street
Although I live in Istanbul, I honestly can't remember the last time I went to the Grand Bazaar... it was probably over a year ago! I live in Levent - don't own a car (yup, I don't!) and even if I had one, getting to the old part of the cityfrom Levent where I live is a pain in the neck because of the traffic! I can go taking mass transportation but would have to take a taxi to the metro, switch over to the indoor finicular in Taksim and then the tram in Kabataş! I have done this, but in better weather!

But, once I arrive, I always kick myself for not visiting more often! And... you don't need to necessarily go to the Grand Bazaar to buy something... it's even fun just walking around and eating at one of the restaurants or cafes in the Bazaar or around Nuruosmaniye Street!

There's a certain charm and energy at the Grand Bazaar that you don't find in other parts of the city. I can't explain why I feel this way, but I do!

Grand Bazaar
Just walking up and down all the streets filled with all sorts of shops... the colors... the kaleidoscope of people...the interesting architecture (although repairs are definitely in order!)... what can say - you have to experience it for yourself to understand what I mean!

The shop owners at the Grand Bazaar, called Kapalı Çarşı in Turkish are known for their "persistence" in attracting customers, but compared to just even a few years ago, they have learned to become a little less pushy! Deep down, I don't think they mean to harass visitors, but sometimes because of the language barrier and the amazing competition, they tend to come off more arrogant than they really are (most anyway!)... 

For example... I run into the same problem... I guess living abroad for over 30 years and having blonde hair (although lots of Turks have blonde hair too thanks to hairdressers - including me), they think I'm a tourist! Normally, they don't bother Turks in the same way. Sometimes, if I hear one more "hey lady... come look at my shop", I think I will scream! Now, if they said this very simple sentence in Turkish, "Hanımefendi... dükkanımıza uğramazmısınız?", I wouldn't react the same way. But, in English, it just sounds crass to me! However, once you start talking to most of the shop owners, they are really very nice people and are willing to give you a helping hand to find what you need if they don't have it!

After a very long absence, I went to the Grand Bazaar on December 21 and then again with my sister on January 3rd.

I took a taxi on my first visit and got off at the entrace to Nuruosmaniye Street (see picture above) because I enjoy walking down this pedestrian only street lined with upscale jewelry, carpet, porcelain and handicrafts shops. Every time you turn, there's a new one shop... one example is Armaggan at No. 65 Nuruosmaniye Street (www.armaggan.com)

Armaggan
This newcomer to the neighborhood opened about 6 months ago I believe (don't know for sure) and the 7-story shop sells top quality jewelry, objects, home and natural dye textiles by Turkish designers. There is also a cafe and restaurant (called Nar and managed separately) on the top floor, which I hear is very good, offering regional Turkish cuisine.

As my time was limited, I didn't get a chance to go into Armaggan, but did call my friend Sevan Bıçakçı (www.sevanbicakci.com) and was thrilled to find out he was at his store, soI went to visit him because we hadn't seen each other in ages, although we speak on the phone from time to time!

The way to go to Sevan's shop is very simple.. hang a right (if coming from the main street) or left (if coming from Grand Bazaar side) at the corner of Armaggan and then make a right onto Gazi Sinan Paşa Sokak and walk down about 1/2 block and Sevan's shop is on the right hand side of the street.


Sevan and I met around 7-8 years ago when I interviewed him for an article for The Guide Istanbul (I was the General Manager and Editor-in-Chief of the English language magazine from 2001-2010).

Back then, this shop was just a simple workshop where this AMAZING jewelry designer created the most beautiful and one of a kind and unique rings that you can imagine! We just warmed up to each other then and although we rarely get a chance to see each other, I know we both have warm feelings towards each other!

Sevan is a worldclass jewelry designer (and known internationally) and unfortunately many designers have tried to copy his designs, but to no avail! Sure, some of the pieces might look the same, but the workmanship and products used are no where near the quality of his work! Never forget, nothing is like the original!

Sevan Bıçakçı rings

Sevan Bıçakçı ring

Sevan Bıçakçı Necklace
Besides rings for women and men, Sevan also designs necklaces, bracelets, brooches, etc. His designs are truly exquisite and if you have to ask how much they cost, you can't afford it... but, looking doesn't cost a dime!

We had a lovely time with Sevan...

Sevan Bıçakçı (left), me (right)
We had tea... chatted and caught up, did a little bit of gossiping and promised that we would try to see each other more often!

Sevan also has a boutique on Akaretler Row right next door to the W Hotel, so if you don't get a chance to go to the Grand Bazaar, you can visit his shop in Akaretler.

My next stop after Sevan's store was the Grand Bazaar itself. I aimlessly walked around a bit to see if anything was different and yes... I noticed two stores that were not their before (I bet there are much more, but these two shops are on the main street as you enter the bazaar on Kalpakçılar Caddesi, so they're hard to miss and a little different from the "normal" shops!)

First, I was shocked to see a branch of MAC, a cosmetics brand - so much so that I didn't take a picture. I just couldn't imagine a shop selling makeup, eyeliners, lipstick, etc at the Grand Bazaar.

The second shop was Vakko Scarves and Ties (www.vakko.com.tr)...

Vakko Scarves & Ties
Vakko is a longstanding Turkish brand and was established in the early 1900s in Istanbul. First specializing in hats, they branched out to scarves and ties and today, they have many branches in Istanbul and other cities throughout Turkey as well as in some countries abroad. There spectrum of goods range from anything and everything for men and women - from apparel, shoes, bags, home textiles etc. to their own brand of chocolates (which are absolutely delicious!). There store at the Grand Bazaar makes sense because the products sold are 100% Turkish and are their own designs! I own several Vakko scarves and I love wearing scarves!  

I also stopped by two other stores on my first visit. The first was my long time jeweler  Orient Jewellery, also on Kalpakçılar Street at No. 126. I met Burhan Alkaç, the owner of this shop about 20 years ago!

Burhan Alkaç (Orient Jewellery)
I was still living in New York City then and during one of our trips to the Grand Bazaar, my sister and I met him and throughout the years, purchased many pieces of jewelry from his shop.

Orient Jewellery

Orient Jewellery
Mr. Alkaç is a very reputable jeweler and he's also very reliable. He only works with 18 karat gold for his gold designs and most of the designs most of the jewelry himself. He's a good acquaintance to have at the Bazaar!

The last shop I visited at the Grand Bazaar was Abdulla Natural Products (www.abdulla.com) located on Halıcılar Caddesi No. 58/60. As its name suggests, all of their textiles (blankets, towels, etc.), soaps, etc are produced with natural materials.

Abdulla Natural Products
I was specifically looking to buy a new blanket for my bed, but unfortunately couldn't find the size I needed, but the shop has topnotch home textiles, soaps and other accessories at affordable prices

Abdulla's "sister" store is Fes Cafe which is right next door... And, I did stop by Fes Cafe both times, but their other branch on Ali Bey Türbesi Street No. 25/27 which is a block off of Nuruosmaniye Street...
Fes Cafe
The first time, I just had a cup of espresso on the patio... but the second time when I went with my sister, we sat inside and each had a falafel wrap with a side of greens which was absolutely delicious and only 15 TL!
Fes Cafe
The emphasis is on the cafe at this branch, however, there is a small section with a selection of Abdulla Natural Products merchandise too. Also, this branch has a more extensive menu compared to their branch at the Grand Bazaar.

To reach Fes Cafe, hang a right on the corner where Sofa Arts & Antiques (www.kashifsofa.com) is when coming from the Grand Bazaar side, or left if coming from the other side...

Sofa Arts & Antiques
Sofa is a great shop if you are looking for unique items.. let it be callligraphy, antique rugs, all sorts of objects, maps, ceramics and more. Kaşif Bey the owner is very knowledgeable and even if you don't purchase anything, you will enjoy having a conversation with him! When I was chatting with him, I found out that he opened a branch in Galata on Serdar-i Ekrem Street No. 47, so you can swing by there too.

If you want to enjoy a "typical" Turkish homestyle meal, one of the best places in the area is Aslan Lokantası...

 Aslan Restaurant is on Vezirhan Street at No. 70. Again, very easy to reach because this street runs parallel to Nuruosmaniye Street ... so if heading towards the Grand Bazaar, hang a left before entering the first entrance to the Grand Bazaar at the end of Nuruosmaniye Street, or a right after you exit the Grand Bazaar and walk through the Nuruosmaniye Mosque.

The restaurant has been around since 1988, it is open Monday-Saturday from 11:30am to 3:00pm, alcohol is not served, but major credit cards (except American Express) are accepted.

The last place I visited on my "mini" Grand Bazaar tour on my second visit was Nick's Calligraphy Corner (www.lordoftheleaves.com).

Nick's Calligraphy Corner
My sister I went to an area called "Iç Bedesten" lined with shops specializing in antique jewelry, etc. and this teeny tiny shop is a gem and so is its owner! He is a highly talented craftsmen and designs gold leaves with all sorts of religious (all religions) and non-religious figures... I had a chance to meet him a couple of years ago when I stopped by to interview him for an article we were preparing.

Nick's Calligraphy Corner
 I highly recommend that you visit his website for all the details. His work is so beautiful that I cannot do it justice here in a few short words... you have to see it for yourself!

The Grand Bazaar and its surroundings are truly an amazing and mystical place! There's a lot of "old", with a mix of some "new"! In fact, you can say it's the first shopping mall in the world. It has around 5,000 shops spread out on 60 streets and alleys offering anything and everything from souvenirs, leather, copper, gold, jewelry, textiles, antiques, carpets and so much more! It was built between 1455-1461 and commissioned by Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror. It was further enlarged in the 16th century by Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent and renovated in 1894 after an earthquake. It is an experience that you will find like in no other place!
Grand Bazaar

Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar is open Monday-Saturday from 9:00am to 7:00pm and is closed on bank holidays. For more information, visit their official website: www.grandbazaar.org

If you want to take a trip down "historical" lane, use your imagination as you walk around this wonderful site created by the Sultans and Ottomans!


Dani

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Nişantaşı (Beymen) Brasserie & Biber Bar: Abdi Ipekçi Street/Nişantaşı "Classics"!

Dear readers,

I had promised you a couple of posts back that at the beginning of 2012 I would "catch-up" on articles I was unable to post because of my crazy schedule in December! I'm almost done and this is the last one on the "eating and drinking" front - then I will be preparing articles on the Grand Bazaar and What's "Up" in Istanbul/Part 3 and then I will once again be current and hope to remain that way. In fact, tonight I am visiting another new eatery and will be giving you info on this new and hip spot in Asmalımescit in a few short days - hopefully!

In a way I'm happy that I have some time off from "real" work so that I can devote some time to my blogs... also, I just posted a new one to Luka's blog yesterday. Luka is my Maltese Terrier and he has things to share with you too but from his perspective. If interested to see what he has to say, please visit http://lollifeofluka.blogspot.com. Now, if I don't give him a plug - he'll get very angry at me!

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I've said this before, but I'll say it again, because there are undoubtedly first time visitors to my blog... Nişantaşı is by far one of the hippest and trendiest neighborhoods in Istanbul!

The most popular street in the Nişantaşı-Teşvikiye-Maçka triangle is no doubt Abdi Ipekçi Street. The street is about 6-7 city blocks long and it is home to some of the major top Turkish and International brands to include Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Prada, Chanel, Ermenegildo Zegna, Escada, Marina Rinaldı, Patrizia Pepe, Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Brioni, Godiva, Marks & Spencer, Vakko, Beymen, etc.  Additionally, in the last few years, it has also become home to a vast number of eateries - from the modest to the expensive. Throw in a smathering of other shops (cosmetics, home accessories, leather goods, etc.) and Abdi Ipekçi Street is one of the most vibrant streets in town!

In my humble opinion, Nişantaşı Brasserie (also called Beymen Brasserie as it is at the entrance of the Beymen Department Store) is the "queen" of the street for culinary delights!

The brasserie/cafe/bar opened in 2004 and hasn't looked back! It might sound like a cliché, but I have been a customer since its opening! First, it was my job to keep up to date with the newest openings in town because of my job as the General Manager and Editor-in-Chief of The Guide Istanbul (from 2001-2010), but then I just continued visiting regularly because I enjoyed the food, service and ambiance!

One of the main reasons behind the success of Nişantaşı Brasserie is its successful owner Metin Fadıllıoğlu. Mr. Fadıllıoğlu is a prominent name on the culinary and nightlife scene in Istanbul for over 35 years and is also the owner of Ulus 29, a fine dining restaurant (open since 1993) on a hilltop in Ulus overlooking the Bosphorus and Asian shoreline. His bio is quite long, but suffice to say, he has been part of many other popular venues around town in the past too.

Recently - on November 30th - I attended a party at Nişantaşı Brasserie to celebrate what I guess we can call their "face lift"!

Nişantaşı Brasserie Party (November 30, 2010)
When you're around that long, it does become necessary to make changes. And, that's what the popular eatery did!

So, what changed? Some minor changes were made to the indoor decor, but most importantly, the menu was expanded!

Until a couple of months ago, the menu only included French and International treats, but now sushi/sashimi, pizza and pasta have been added to the menu along with some additional items to their otherwise extensive menu.


Sushi @ Nişantaşı Brasserie
We had a chance to taste the sushi selections at the party and they were excellent considering it was very crowded and let me tell you, it's not easy to serve plate after plate of sushi at these types of parties!

The party was a resounding success - I attended the party with my best friend Nur, sis Meltem and brother-in-law Ibrahim and we ran into lots of our friends too! In fact, the very next night, I went to dinner at Nişantaşı Brasserie with my good friend Bennu and had a great time!

As I dubbed Nişantaşı Brasserie the "queen" of Abdi Ipekçi Street, then the "princess" of the eatery is Ayşegül Perksoy!

Ayşe Perksoy - Manager/Nişantaşı Brasserie
I met Ayşegül when the eatery first opened and she was then the assistant manager. After a few years, she left - moved to the USA for a while - then returned to Turkey - was at Ulus 29 and then this past summer at Ulus 29's summertime only venue in Göltürkbükü, Bodrum and now she is back at Nişantaşı Brasserie. She is wonderful with the customers and treats everyone the same - whether you are a regular or first time visitor! Some of the staff at Nişantaşı Brasserie has also changed and they are all friendly and efficient.

So, I highly recommend that you visit Nişantaşı Brasserie on your next trip to Istanbul. And, if as a resident, you haven't had a chance to go yet, plan to go during the day or night - you will have a good time and enjoy good food and drink!

Now... I would like to give you some more general info on NB before going on to my next venue.

Nişantaşı Brasserie is located at the entrance to the Beymen Department Store which is on the corner of Abdi Ipekçi Street in Nişantaşı square and adjacent to my favorite store - Louis Vuitton!

Beymen Department Store
Nişantaşı Brasserie has indoor and outdoor dining areas which are open year round with heaters outdoors, so if you're a smoker, you're in luck!

You can go to the eatery for just a cup of coffee, breakfast, snacks, lunch, drinks, dinner... it's up to you.

The prices aren't exactly cheap, but they're not unreachable either! It just depends on what you eat and drink...

But just to give you an idea.. breakfast treats (omelets are very good) range from 14-18 TL; Snacks (spicy chicken wings, tacos, etc.) 22-38 TL; sandwiches (Croque Monsieur/Madam, Club Sandwich, Tuna fish, etc.) 21-25 TL; Starters (French Onion Soup, etc.) 18-58 TL; Salads (Goat cheese with red beets, Chicken Caesar, Duck Salad, etc.) 28-44 TL; Specials (escargot, steak tartare) 28-40 TL; Pasta/Risotto (penne, tortellini, etc.) 18-29 TL; Pizza (4 kinds) 24-34 TL; Fish (salmon, sea bass, jumbo shrimp) 40-52 TL; Main courses (Duck, Lamb Shank, Dry Aged Steaks, etc.) 30-60 TL; Sushi/Sashimi - 9-46 TL; Wines by the glass (Turkish and International) 14-20 TL; classic cocktails 25 TL, special cocktails 27 TL; Beer (domestic and international) 15-20 TL; coffee/tea 6-20 TL; soft drinks 3-15 TL; and desserts which also include a section with "sugar free" delights! 17-18 TL.

So, as you can see the prices aren't outrageous and once again, depends on what you select to eat and/or drink!

Nişantaşı Brasserie is open daily from 10:00am to midnight. It's a good idea to make reservations for lunch or dinner. (Abdi Ipekçi Caddesi No. 23/1 Nişantaşı; Tel: (0212) 343 04 43-44.

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The second "classic" venue on my list is Biber Bar! Biber means pepper in Turkish and their logo is that of a pepper, but with a cocktail in his hand!

Biber Bar "re-opened" several years ago at No. 36 on Abdi Ipekçi Street. But, Biber was "the" most popular bar in town in the late 1990s! At that time it was located a few doors down on the same street, but it was half the size of what it is now. Once again, just like at Nişantaşı Brasserie, I have been a long time regular at Biber and went there for the first time in 1996! I'm not kidding when I say we used to go with my friends at least 3-4 times a week! They would open at around 6:00pm and the crowd would die out by the latest 9:00-10:00pm. From there, we would head over to Mezzaluna (a couple of doors down) or to Papermoon for dinner and from their to Şamdan for dancing till the morning! Ahhh! Those were the days! But, I can no longer do that now as I'm 16 years older, but more importantly there are so so many more places to go to compared to then! It was a wonderful time... everyone knew each other or made some friendships there (some of who I still keep in touch with till today!) and we used to travel in flocks from one venue to the other!

When Emre Ergani decided to re-open Biber, he not only got the old-timers together, but a totally new generation, expats and visitors to Istanbul also discovered Biber Bar! A few words on Emre... if I'm not mistaken, Biber was the first place he owned (he had a partner). Through the years, he became a big name in the nightlife scene and is the owner of Blackk nightclub in Kuruçeşme, Bianca Beach in Bodrum and also manages the venues at W Lounge. I probably left out something because he is involved in so many places! He's only in his early 40s, so he started out in this business very young!

The elegantly decorated "new" Biber has a very long elgant bar in the indoor section with comfortable seating and a separate terrace (where smoking is permitted as the windows are kept open - there are heaters on the walls)...

Biber Bar
Biber Bar terrace
Also, as of this year and the new configuration on Abdi Ipekçi Street, Biber has a nice sized outdoor seating area right on the street.

I don't go to Biber Bar as regularly as I used to, but I make it a point to visit at least several times when it's open from October - May. The bar closes for the summer when they "move" to Alaçatı in Çeşme for the summer season.

The last time I was there was on December 6th... again with my best friend Nur, sis Meltem and brother-in-law Ibrahim. We opted to order a bottle of red wine, but obviously there is a very extensive cocktail menu...

Biber Bar
The wine list is not up to my standards, but this is a problem in a majority of the venues around town as I mentioned earlier. However, this is a bar and the majority of the customers prefer drinking cocktails or beer, so I can't complain!

With your drinks, you are served mix nuts, a plate full of pickles and green olives (talk about getting thirsty!) and throughout the evening, some finger foods are served gratis...


Biber Bar also has a very extensive snack menu - everything from burgers and wraps to other bar snacks are available. We orderered duck and beef wraps and they were delicious! However, the French Fries were a little too salty for my taste, but then again, I don't like salt much, so I might not be the best judge on this matter!

Duck & Beef wraps at Biber Bar
Biber Bar is a great place to go before or after dinner ... it is open daily from around 6:00pm until 2:00am. The music played is great (not so loud that you can't hear each other talk) - no techno here! The service is efficient and the prices medium to high.

Don't be surprised if you see some of the same people from Nişantaşı Brasserie at Biber Bar and vice versa... if you like one, you'll like the other place too!

Hope you enjoy your evening out at two of my fav places on Abdi Ipekçi Street!


Dani